Hey guys!
Sorry I haven’t written in a while… I’ve been traveling so much through Australia, and the places I’ve been staying in haven’t had internet.
So I’ll catch you guys up to speed on what I’ve been up to. After I left New Zealand and headed over to Oz I went straight to Old Bar, (it’s a small town in Australia). I was just there a couple days to work on my surfing. Parker Coffin was also there.
From there I flew to North Narrabeen to visit one of my friends Laura Enever. We are both on Roxy and Nike 6.0 together. I had so much fun with her and I discovered an amazing food there called “ Meat Pies!”
It is basically just how it sounds – pie – but instead of pumpkin inside it is filled with meat! It might sound gross but just trust me it is the best thing ever! This is right up there with “ Backyard Bowls.”
But that wasn’t all we did, Laura and I got to go to the Roxy store and shop like crazy. So overall, the waves were really great, food was amazing, and I got a whole new wardrobe.
After a week with Laura, we both headed up to the Gold Coast. It is like the California of Australia. I am staying at the Quiksilver house, it has a great view of the surf, and has good cafes around it.
The First couple of days that we got here we went to a surf spot called D’bah , it’s a fun beach break right next to Snapper. One day I was supposed to film at a break next to D’bah but to get there you have to paddle across a really deep “ SHARK INFESTED” channel.
I thought that it would be no big deal, but when I saw the channel I had to paddle across I told Laura and Coco “ I’m sorry guys but there is no way I’m going to paddle across the channel, it’s way to deep and way to far!” Coco, my other friend, was in agreement. Laura, however, was determined to go film… So Coco and I watched as she paddled across the shark infested waters. She is officially crazy!
There was a 14-foot tiger shark spotted there just a month ago.
Little did I know, if the sharks don’t get you something will.
Two days later, I was surfing at Snapper early in the morning. Snapper is a really fun wave but when it is good there is always at least 500 people or more out. So to catch a wave is a miracle but then if you catch one you can’t do anything on the wave because there are people everywhere so you have to swerve around each person in your way.
So… I was paddling out and a big set came; I jumped off of my board to go under the wave because people were everywhere and I didn’t want to get hit. I dove as deep as a could and I started to swim back up and as I was coming up something hit me so hard I felt like I was going to throw up… but I didn’t know what it was.
I went in and when I got out of the water my leg started hurting really bad!
I bent down to look at it and I saw a HUGE hole in my upper thigh, like the nose of someone’s board went straight into my leg! I went over to my mom and told her I got cut and her words were, “ hhhhhhhh! we have to go to the ER to get stitches right now!”
Then I started freaking out because it hurt like crazy and I hate anything that has to do with needles and stitches!!! But I had no choice. Off to the ER we went and I came out with four stitches in my leg.
It’s a bummer because I cant surf until Wednesday but that’s ok. I’ll have plenty of time to surf in my life, that’s for sure! Well that’s it for the adventures in Oz so far, hope that brings you up to speed.